斐济群岛过大年

Azuregigi

前言

说说这次旅行

作者 Dr.Gigi,曾经医生,现客座教授,外语爱好者,澳总理的同传,福布斯论坛同传。。

时间 2013年春节,,一周。。带老妈和娃,,发现过年老爸最可怜,总在家看菜地。。去年我和老妈在新西兰过的年。。 相机,新进的Olympus T30 Tough 防水防摔,价值800人民币左右,傻瓜中的入门级。。去斐济。。因为要带孩子度假,斐济离悉尼最近。。 电影是我旅行单的灵感来源,一部经典80年的由16岁芳龄的Brooke Shields 完美演绎的《蓝湖》,一部汤姆汉克斯的《荒岛余生》。。。这两部电影都有在斐济群岛取景,不过拍片的blue lagoon island n castaway island有高达5000刀一晚上住宿啊!!我勒个去。。。所有去过斐济的朋友都说斐没劲也不美,,但看地图这太平洋中间的岛国,有300多岛,应该不赖啊。。去看看为什么。去了才知道,,,斐济不像马尔代夫,,如果你选错了岛,或者就近图便宜将就一下,的确是可能看不到好风景,比如渡轮上那帮可怜的中国来的团友,一大帮人被送到最近最便宜的某岛应付了事,各个一脸郁闷一点不像在度假,,马尔代夫则不同,貌似两千多岛都很美。。。斐济主岛除了Coral Coast和五星酒店集中的一带有像样的海滩,剩下的海都是灰黄色的。。但是游轮开出一小时,就看到真正的湛蓝。。。斐济有的岛很美,水清沙幼,但是环礁少,浮潜看不到什么。。。做了一周功课,最后决定去 yasawa islands..。天堂岛

游记是在途中用英文整的。。因为悉尼的朋友们等着看,懂英文的童鞋勉强瞅一眼。。中文我慢慢在照片上添加。。。 斐济很多小岛貌似被白人买断了。。。去了都是看到GM是白人,干活的是黑人。。。一周下来,我妈也晒的和黑人差不多了,她老人家不是缺维生素D吗,这下估计不缺了。。哈哈

斐济1

Fiji, a Paradise of 330+ Islands and over 500 inlets sits in the heart of the Pacific Ocean, distancing it from the 21st century hustle and bustle, the virtual escapism of iProducts and so called modern life. It is surrounded by crystal clear turquoise waters promising a through cleansing not only of the body but more for the soul.

And me, a wandering traveler making up my destinations from the random impulses etched from the movies of my youth that have touched and inspired me.

Fiji, home of the eternal classics like the 1980 hit Blue Lagoon and Cast Away, the movie that scored Tom Hanks an Oscar. I was drawn to these Islands because both movies were filmed here, later finding out that it would cost thousands of dollars per night to stay on the two islands where the films were made. wait until I get filthy rich! I have many friends that have warned me that Fiji is boring with little to do. Indeed it can be, especially the main island. Perhaps they should have passed the Big Island up for the lesser islands that were my destination.

So after a week of exhaustive homework, digging into every trip advisor tip and countless Internet searches, I have shortened the list down to the Yasawa Islands for my holiday. These Islands are a 3-hour, fast ferryboat ride away from Port Denarau. Yasawa means Heaven in the Fijian language and they more then lived up to their fame!

The Island stay was pleasantly relaxing and unwinding. Tides come and go as did my worldly worries that I was trying to leave behind.

The tap water was a bit brackish but if you tell me it is for the benefit of conservation, it makes it more bearable. One has to query why they don’t build the overwater bungalows such as the ones in the Maldives. After the first day it's apparent that the geography is not the same and that the volcanic origins of the island have determined that during low tide, the coral is exposed too much to form a natural breakwater barrier.

斐济2

Mum and Son prefer the rewards of picking coconuts off the trees, while I prefer snorkelling during early mornings and the sunset hours when the fish are most active and looking for an easy around meal. I just use swimming goggles because I am yet to find a snorkel mask that fits properly and doesn’t leak like a broken dam around my face. They are easier for me to wear but vision is somewhat compromised knowing from the photographs that I took that turned out much better then what I was seeing.

The snorkeling was amazing. The red bull’s-eye, busy crunching on coral for food suddenly sense the menacing floatingpredator somewhere about. They suddenly froze looking up and floating perpendicular to the ocean floor, wondering what the giant might be with the swim goggles on. Their little mouths open with curiosity and bewilderment. So cute until I kicked off a splash and dove down closer for a look, all of them scattering off instinctively at top speed, heading for the closest refuge. I was amused, thinking to myself “ Come on babe, I am sure that you fishes could correctly judge my low level of fierceness by my pathetically slow velocity in the water.plus humans could be something that u see day to day..I saw, fat bleekers parrotfish of almost two feet long, chasing each other n folicking through the corals, pikefish very much guarded at all times n refused to come into close proximity with anything else, moving fast away without sort of moving any part of its body, purple starfish among the corals in the shape of the mandarin character for human, brain corals, mushroom corals, table corals etc, giving out a purple fluorescent shine, sea cucumbers of all colors n sizes, wiggling slowly at the bottom seafloor, ready to shrink to minimum at your first poke, giant sea hare,

斐济3

every now n then schools of tiny teeny fish would cross paths n i was like surrounded by little shiny snowflakes, n its amazing to see how the eclipse butterflyfish has a black banded stripe running through the eyes from top down just wide enough to cover the eyes n near the tail there's a fake eye pattern five times the size of its real eye in the obvious purpose of better self protection, i guess this is the opposite of a camouflage...reef sharks occasionally swim over in full grace, patrolling its own territory....I had to thank my cheap Olympus underwater camera for doing such a nice job, at $142 its my sofar most worthwhile purchase for the year, how I wish I had this in Belize, to be able to record memories of the magnificent great mayan reef in the unique azure waters of caribe, just two meters under there it was the lybarinthic maze of distinctive colored corals n fish, gropers of half metre long, lobsters hiding in small cavern holes, n bright colored sea snails on the pink or purple fan corals, huge nurse sharks n stingrays coming over in packs, flipping up n down checking their human friends out, welcoming us intruders with open fins lol....to me its the best meditation of all kinds, to be able to dive under water n shield from all the noises of the land world, even for just a while, to feel the true harmony one can have with mother nature n other lifeforms, thats when there's no fierce sharks of course lol...I must go to the Caribbean again. Sometime, hope not too far away...

斐济4

The Village -- visited one true self sufficient island village, everybody came out n greeted us, number 1 the villagers are blessed with such natural beauty that we travellers pay up hundreds of dollars per day to indulge just occasionally, on the other hand u will see the primitive staggering state of civilization, there's nothing modern here, people actually build their own makeshift house/bure with whatever materials at hand, a big flat tree stump can serve as the dining table, an enclosed little topless shed could be the alfresco toilet just offering basic privacy...it must be stuffy warm inside the bure n its kind of summer all year round, everybody is sitting out under a small simple roofed area, trying to make most of the patchy shade to quench down the midday heat waves, one grandpa actually immersed himself off the beach the entire afternoon, making u wonder will they ever get sun burn at all, or this is a problem just for the light complexioned, grandmas frequently were carrying babies with them, i spot some rainwater tanks, maybe thats where they get the fresh water from on a dry island without lakes, every meal is cooked the traditional way--lovo feast lol... lovo sites can be found everywhere , they burn dry twiglets n leaves for cooking, n for smoking away mosquitos at night, hence the burning smell that's lingering around since I stepped on the island, reminding me of my countrylife childhood, some of my personal happiest time..everyone is sort of overweight, as is the case with most aborigines around the world. Fijians have Afro puff kind of hair, can pretty much tell the difference between an indian n local from the hairstyles, women look older for their age, the fact my son being mistaken for my younger brother n my mum's second child, not once but everytime made my day happier lol...

斐济5

chooks n hens running free among the crops, mostly yam, eggplant, coconut trees and breadfruits, now it explains the grilled chicken I had over lunch, it tasted great n different from the soggy meat we had in sydney...of course coz its real free range chicken, n possibly free from growth-stimulating hormones too!!! Saw us coming the busy grandmas all took out some treasure boxes from home n trying to sell us stuff, we did buy something from everyone just to make them happy...

If my son learns to reflect how fortunate n blessed he actually is with his taken-for-granted everyday life now in Sydney, this trip would be well worth it...compared with the deprived kids over here that surviving on aids n natures grant at its own whims, one cyclone can easily wipe away everything, n tourism being the main source of industry for some time. But when i asked my son what does he think about the poor kids on the island, the reply i got was, hey mum they've so lucky they got chooks! Eugh!!

先来,全球地理位置。。左中上是中国,FIJI这一带附近还有著名的new caledonia, noumea等,待我一一去遍再给大家讲
看一看周边的太平洋岛国们
斐济群岛酒店等级分布图
斐济共和国

第1天

前往斐济

上飞机啦。。娃大了,能自己填入境卡了
5个小时的跨海飞行,终于见到了陆地
人口真稀
Port Denarau 本岛出发去小岛的主要港口
这应该是最近的一个小岛,本岛出发十分钟到。。好像是south sea island
湛蓝
三个多小时后,靠岸,小接驳船老远来拉人。。很好,不靠近就不伤及珊瑚礁。

酒店

岛上最好的Bure (斐济式茅屋,发音“不瑞”),每晚每人135刀
体验星空下沐浴
海在6米左右开外
顿顿西餐
游客纳凉聊天
海边捡到一个鸟窝
岛上的狗很友好

海岛

水不错,,关键是温度可人,,澳洲这样的水很多,可惜太凉,要么就浪大风高一点不kids friendly
虎斑贝沙滩很多,尽量不让娃捡走。。我们要从小做合格的旅行家。。
take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints

第2天

划艇

有昆士兰来的两个澳洲小孩,大家一起去划艇
你看到鲨鱼了吗??
有一条大苏眉在海边翻腾半天,不知道在吃什么
神龙见首不见尾的,各种空中翻腾两周半,转体180度,难度系数0.。。
一群小鱼
捡到大clam当帽子

在岛上

岛上每天有安排不同的活动,呆6天就会开始重复
开饭敲锣。。
够椰子
每天在sunset deck 吃晚餐,边听斐济的黑哥哥们弹吉他
岛上的斐济人会搞民族服饰表演。。对了,斐济的男人是穿裙子的,裹裙,而且据说真空上阵

第3天

有村寨的岛

和苏格兰来的一对帅哥美女租船去一个有村寨的岛,苏格兰人真是不见天日啊,,白成马了,和这俩站一起俺们都跟矿工一样
看到海边了
斐济人的做饭方式叫LOVO,其实就是土里烧。。貌似每个国家都有点叫化鸡文化。
到处都是走地鸡
房子就是这般简陋
就地取材的各种工具
大家都很好奇,出来看我们
这该是厕所吧,,想起儿时的农村生活,所以我知道这个,那时候整天笑我表弟在露天茅房一边解2号一边各种舞动臀部一边唱歌,,原来是苍蝇太多,不动苍蝇就落身上痒痒的,偶尔正如厕,还会突然跑进来邻居的猪啊狗的。。吓一跳
简陋的纳凉席
随便一活就是90多啊,,这估计是酋长或者村长的坟墓吧
哈哈哈,又见喵星人
村里的老妈妈们开始给我们几个摆摊了
老妈买了这个扇子。。。15刀很贵啊,不过没搞价。。看看他们简陋的村子,就当捐款了
苏格兰的帅哥给GF买了两条手链
某些人就知道吃糖
某些人照相从来不管指头放哪
一个大爷在海里一直泡着解暑
快起来小BB,你屁股不怕烫吗
老妈拿椰子叶子给编的捕鱼筐。。。真是傻逼了,这次又忘带钓具。。。结果下海喂鱼,刚撒了一把米饭,鱼就群扑上来,有的还咬烂了我手。。55555.。。凶死了

在岛上

7天,我们是岛上唯一的亚洲人。。。又开始了各种见我就说日语的人,,我就那么像日本人吗,摆脱,有没有去过日本啊,,日本女生大部分比姐至少矮一头吧,皮肤也不会像俺这么差

ipad 上,塞皮终于给我分了一个棒棒糖
做椰子壳首饰
我们这一周下来,喝了岛上不少椰子哦
没有露点,这张照片怎么那么像那个著名的普利策摄影奖作品的姿势 --一个垂死的非洲小女孩后面立个秃鹫,,摄影师拍了那次非洲专辑不久后抑郁自杀。
小螃蟹

第4天

等待日出

沙子里很多螃蟹, 想起赵丽蓉老师的台词 ---你没包住啊,都露着哪!
我可是逮螃蟹的高手,大小螃蟹到我手里就动不了了
太阳出来啦!怎么这样小??
想起那句,长河落日圆
突然上到云里变成了月牙状

浮潜

Ta-da!!!! 水下模式,正式启动!
水下
可怜我戴什么浮潜面具都漏水,,每次只好戴着个游泳眼镜去浮潜,一手拿相机,一手还要捏个鼻子什么的,,不过好在相机挺争气,还录像了一分钟才断电
这条鹦鹉苏眉看着不大,,其实足有1尺多长,,游的好快,,好不容易逮到一张,,可惜它不到白珊瑚那里去,否则色差会更好看
突然被鱼群包围了。。。我都忘记了我只是在浮潜呐!
这个紫海星像不像一个朝右奔走的小人儿
好几种珊瑚在一张照片
一群小蓝
这就是桌珊瑚了,,还真像桌子
最满意的一张,镜头跟前那条鱼又在耍什么杂技。。。谁知道这什么鱼啊。。。这鱼最喜欢人了,你游哪它们跟哪。。。。尤其喜欢小孩,,围着娃转着圈儿打量。。。连续一周屡试不爽
娃给我来一张,结果没有脸
这条起名叫 导航鱼
打水仗

第5天

离开

最后一天了。等渡轮中
走了。。。岛上的人们出来唱歌欢送我们。。某人被亲被抱了一阵,很不好意思
某人逼我在机场买的纪念品。。好了,支持国产吧
最后吃一餐海豚鱼。。这个叫Mahi Mahi 的鱼,长得很像海豚的头,在澳洲是严格的一级保护动物,在太平洋岛国,就是家常便饭。。味道不错,肉质粗些,刺少,没腥味

第6天

最后一天

在酒店玩疯了。。酒店有好几个泳池,有一个有个大旋转滑梯的
娃眼尖,在泳池出水的孔那发现一只困住的frog还是toad, 可怜的小东西不知道掉进泳池多久了,都快不行了,还活着但是处于让人随便摸的状态
来来来,跳他嘴里!
上飞机啦。。无聊的做起了垃圾袋背后的十字连词,好专心啊
起飞
真是外国长大的,到哪点菜都是各种burger和icecream
哪家的大油轮也出发了
发现一个心形的珊瑚岛
躺在腿上吃薯条,爽死你了
来一张悉尼密密实实的房子们
快到城里了
看到大铁桥了
为换零钱去买了一个麦当劳小蛋筒,这是有史以来我见过最高的麦蛋筒了。。。aussie kid打工也是在玩,我就看那男孩完全就是再看自己可以把它摞多高。。。娃开心了,吃半天吃不完,害大家耽误几趟车。。。。悉尼的火车地铁汽车吃东西严格来讲都不让上的。。。
每次玩回来,,什么都不想,,要么就是思念方便面,要么就是狂想吃辣子。。。不过这次不想那些了。。我家不买菜。。后院菜地的有机素食大餐,,美美补一顿。。
目的地: 斐济
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