【皇氏古建築大全】【環遊尋美拾遺錄】【黃劍博客圖文集】
Jumbo Heritage List©Crown Sword Wave©Jumbo Huang Story
第700回：神话国度亚美尼亚，欧亚交界埃里部落

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©原创图文(本图文中的照片和文字版权归Jumbo Huang所有，任何形式转载请联系作者：Jumbo_Huang@126.com, 微信号: Jumboheritagelist 或 Huang_Jumbo)，本图志全部图片谢绝一切非完整性的截图转载！

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请自重，特别谢绝各种手工特意叠加商业网站水印的转载！本人摄影照片作品保留一切权利。作品中图片不得直接或者间接用于以营利为目的一切商业行为，违者必究。文章来源：《皇氏古建築大全》和《環遊尋美拾遺錄》及《黄剑博客图文集》）

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2015年09月02日，早上七点多才起床，洗漱完毕后戴安娜母女俩就给我们准备了丰富的早餐，戴安娜客厅铺着竹子地板，除了大沙发床，还有四个单人沙发椅及一张桌子，沙发床旁边是巨大的书柜，

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中间摆放着很多玻璃器皿，两侧是一些我们看不懂的书，客厅有两个门，一个门直通走廊，旁边是戴哥的卧室，电脑桌就摆放在门外，另外一个门直通阳台，房间除了大门，所有房门的锁都是坏的，也就是说客厅的两个门都是无法关闭的。

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在沙发床的左侧摆放着一架钢琴。阳台非常大，靠近厨房的一侧摆放着很多晾晒的西红柿等食物，从阳台上可以眺望埃里温的城市风景，远处山坡上有高大的电视发射塔，高楼非常分散，

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数量并不多，近处有很多别墅和民居，百米多远的地方是一座新建的东正教堂，我站在阳台可以看到别墅里的私人游泳池，还有一些人在院子里养鸽子。

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再远处就是英雄女人的巨大雕塑和著名的亚美尼亚大屠杀纪念馆，我返回客厅，看到了戴安娜父母的合影，她父亲是军官，戴安娜她妈年轻时是一个美女，她哥长得非常像她爸，但她哥太过腼腆和内向，连戴安娜都不知道她哥到底有没有女朋友，戴安娜可能比我们小几岁，已经大学毕业。

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戴安娜长发披肩，是一个特别能干的女强人，可能因为太强势了，之前交的男朋友告吹了，戴安娜还想介绍我去埃里温的学校教中文的，她也太瞧得起咱们了。

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我们在戴安娜家吃饱喝足就出门，沿泰格苒美兹大街往共和广场徒步(Tigran Mets Street)，马路对面就有一栋十多层的老高楼，多是苏联时期的建筑，前方是罗马比萨店，马路上的汽车非常多，公交车多破旧，只有中国捐赠的公交车最漂亮了，车身写着“中亚友谊车”，

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我们经过大教堂那里，看到一座雕塑，广场后面就是教堂，草坪上聚集了一些散步的人，再走一会就看到了一个卖汉堡的餐厅，叫“汉堡公主”(Queen Burger & King Burger)，

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估计是模仿美国的汉堡王连锁店。我们过马路后，在沿途看到很多年轻漂亮的女孩子，这个城市跟老龄化的欧洲不同，年轻人非常多，虽然失业率也很高。

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路上行人非常懒散，气候适宜，慢节奏的都市生活，市区并没有什么古建筑，说这个城市跟罗马一样古老只是意淫罢了。我们走到埃里温的市中心共和广场，周围是大酒店和国家美术馆，

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每天晚上的音乐喷泉非常漂亮，整个共和国广场的建筑风格还是很富有亚美尼亚特色的，砖红色的外体加上欧式的罗马柱的建筑体现了中亚式与欧式相结合的特色，一些建筑是苏联时期留下的，共和广场的建筑过于堂皇和呆板，没有那种过多的装饰，

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多是前苏联厚重的红色岩石建筑，市晸府及博物馆和五星级酒店环绕在这个广场，广场向西南延伸为休闲绿地，条形的街道绿地镶嵌与街道中，由一条水晶分隔，形成两侧的室外餐饮和活动舞台，

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广场上摆放着很多长椅，市民可以坐在广场上休息，很多地标建筑还在施工建设中，我们从共和广场开始逛的时候，就在留意能使用中国银联卡的自动取款机，结果连续走了几十条街道，硬是没有找到一家支持中国银行借记卡取现的，

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今天真切感受到了外高加索彪悍的民风，我们几乎逛遍了埃里温的大街小巷，逐个查看了几十个不同外资银行的上百个取款机，就是没有看到任何有中国银联标识的取款机，

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虽然SB汇丰银行HSBC在埃里温有大量的分行和取款机，但这家植根祖国，从中国走向世界的银行，居然吃里扒外，死活都不支持银联业务，死活都不给我们的我国银行卡提供取款服务，真是罪大恶极。

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我们至少去过三家汇丰银行的办公室咨询过了，二个是支部，另外一个是总部，多次交涉，先是以借记卡没有打印持卡人的姓名为借口，之后又说整个亚美尼亚没有银联网络，最后干脆说不行了。

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到了下午，我途经共和广场的那家靠近万豪酒店的汇丰银行(HSBC Republic Square)，之前有攻略说这里是整个外高加索地区唯一支持银联取现业务的银行，

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如是我们最后一搏，进去咨询后，发现还是无法取现！本以为从伊朗出来就有办法取现金了，结果才发现前途更加惨淡，幸亏自己手头上还有250欧元和1600元美金，否则真是弹尽粮绝了。

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后来我们途径卅丝超市时(SAS)，进去兑换了250欧元的现金，拿到了147150德拉姆，汇率相当不错，这样我手头累计就有20万亚美尼亚货币了。为了节省对现金的支取，中午特意去埃里温歌剧院喷泉广场前面的一家肯德基餐厅吃饭，

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刷信用卡消费3900德拉姆，肯德基提供免费网络服务，密码印刷在购物单据上，可以免费使用厕所，买单时碰到一个说中文的伊朗侨民，他在广州学过中文，他帮我们咨询过几个本地人，确定埃里温没有任何中资银行，

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虽然我们在逛街时看到了一家华为产品的专卖店，但店员也是本地人，逛了一天居然没有看到一个中国游客，也没有看到韩国人，这又是一个冷门的旅游目的地。肯德基餐厅对面是一个圆形水池，

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几个女童在斗一只白天鹅玩，旁边还有两只黑天鹅，我们还经过阶梯形的公园，前方是雕塑，再走一会就经过了亚美尼亚作家协会，红褐色的石砌建筑，再经过皇家广场酒店，可以看到前面出现另外一座新建的教堂，

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我走进去参观了一会，有一些基督教徒在蜡烛。我们还经过保护人权组织的办事处和国家电影中心办公室，北方大道酒店所在的区域是繁华地带(Hotel North Avenue)，下午我们经过另外一家超市时，

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购买了一些饺子和熟肉，还买了牛奶和葡萄等水果，累计花费3076德拉姆，返回家里时黛安娜母女出门了，无奈我们站在门口等候，斜对面房间不断有妇女进出，对面房间住着三个瘦成皮包骨头的少女，她们好奇地盯着我们。

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后来黛安娜母女回家了，我们进门后跟她们一起准备晚餐，煮了水饺，把肉放进面条里，尔后我们像一家人一样坐下来吃饭，过了一会戴安娜的哥哥也提前回家了，大家一起吃晚饭，饭后还有水果吃。戴安娜左腿带着护膝，她说之前走路摔跤时折断了腿，目前刚康复。

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我送给她两片云南白药膏贴，后来戴安娜打开一个网页给我们欣赏她妈妈三年前参加电视选秀时唱的歌曲，然后戴安娜叫媛打开世界上最大的视频分享网站“撸油管”(Youtube)，最后她搜索出她妈妈在不同的电视选秀节目中演唱歌曲的视频，包括评委的点评，看后让我们大吃一惊，没有想到戴安娜的妈妈居然还是一个歌唱艺术家，这又让我想起了湖北一枝花，我老乡刘亦菲她妈。

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戴安娜的妈妈力挽狂澜，战胜不少年轻歌手，最近进入决赛，在全国的电视台亮相，放声歌唱，令人震惊，据说戴安娜的妈妈去菜市场买菜时，很多当地群众还能认出她来，真是岁月如歌啊。戴安娜也不逊色了，她哥哥能弹钢琴，她也在国际歌唱家协会兼职，同时在牙医诊所打零工，在地区歌唱保护协会学习。

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吃完饭之后我出门徒步半小时抵达埃里温火车站，这里有骑马拔剑人的雕像，女孩都穿得比较暴露，穿过地铁站抵达了汽车站，逛了一圈又徒步走回家里，洗完澡就看电视。

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现在唯一烦心的是那只猫，只要有机会去开门，它就闪进客厅，跳上桌子和床上到处乱咬，房间都是猫的骚味。打开电视，洋人新闻都在播放欧洲出现自二战之后最严重的难民危机。难民危机没有消退迹象，

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欧洲一体化遭持续撕裂，从2015年开始，每年都有很多中东和非洲群众因偷渡葬身在前往欧洲的地中海途中。旷日持久的难民和非法移民问题日益成为影响欧洲国家团结和内部安全的一个重要议题，逐渐“撕裂”欧洲社会，破坏欧盟凝聚力。

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摩洛哥海军的海岸警卫队经常要在地中海搭救落水的偷渡者，一些拥挤的难民船只在从利比亚出发前往欧洲途中，可能会在突尼斯海域沉没，偶尔渔民会救一些人，但船上大部分人通常会失踪……

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戴安娜家里只有一台电脑，他们家三人轮流使用，加上电视被我们占据了，也真是难为他们家了，戴安娜与她妈妈睡一个房间，她们母女俩的房间非常乱，简直看不下去，衣服全是乱扔的。晚上去银联网上查询，发现银联在亚美尼亚根本没有业务，难怪今天白费心机跑了一天。

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这样我们从伊朗开始，一直都无法用银联卡取现了。（附注：在互联网上搜索“如何用银联卡在亚美尼亚取现金”，只出现一个有价值的信息，时间是2012年，内容为：“反正我当时查银联的官网, 外高地区就没有业务的，

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汇丰银行可以支持银联取现, 但是格鲁吉亚的倒闭了. 埃里温的共和广场的那家汇丰银行可以取现. 外高三国基本是货币自由兑换，当然要开收据。不过兑换点数量随城镇大小，几乎呈几何级数递减。第比利斯和巴库街头兑换点大多很显眼，以火车站一带的，普遍汇率更高。

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但是第比利斯我见过的汇率最好一家却不在火车站一带，而是Rustaveli大街44号。巴库老城里几乎就没有挂牌的兑换点，换钱要出去，至少到北城根下独立大街或喷泉广场一带。至于埃里温的则经常设在超市里，而且大超市里的兑换点往往比独立的能兑换币种更多，汇率更好。SAS超市汇率最好。当然，边境口岸也都能兑换。但是可以想见，这里的汇率是最坑人的。

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据记载有个中国老兄在巴库机场滞留25小时，搭帐篷，一个汉堡两瓶水花了50多块钱，到了也没拿到阿塞拜疆签证，护照上亚美尼亚签证还被阿塞拜疆傻瓜边检一通鬼画符，最后因为那帮鸟人，连去格鲁吉亚的飞机都差点误了，对阿塞拜疆从此深恶痛绝“）。

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Jumbo Huang Notes: Yesterday we crossed the boarder from Iran to Armenia, we walked on the bridge which crossed the Aras, it is a river in and along the countries of Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Iran. It drains the south side of the Lesser Caucasus Mountains and then joins the Kura River which drains the north side of those mountains. Its total length is 1072 kilometres. Given its length and a basin that covers an area of 102,000 square kilometres, it is one of the largest rivers of the Caucasus. We contacted with Diana through Airbnb and finally found her home located at Tigran Mets Street 27/2 apt70 Kinoteatre Rossia Puzza di Roma, Diana’s registration in airbnb began from Jun 2015, she mentioned that her house had Wifi, TV, Piano, Free Breakfast. There were several positive comments on the airbnb, including Alejandro, Lucia, Adam, Luis, Tania etc. Armenia is a landlocked country in the South Caucasus region of Eurasia. Located in Western Asia, it is bordered by Turkey to the west, Georgia to the north, the de facto independent Nagorno-Karabakh Republic and Azerbaijan to the east, and Iran and the Azerbaijani exclave of Nakhchivan to the south. Armenia is a unitary, multi-party, democratic nation-state with an ancient cultural heritage. The Kingdom of Van was established in 860 BC and overthrown in the 6th century BC, while some decades later the Satrapy of Armenia was established. The Kingdom of Armenia was restored in the 4th century BC, and in the 1st century BC it reached its height under Tigranes the Great. Armenia became the first state in the world to adopt Christianity as its official religion, in between late 3rd century to early years of the 4th century, becoming the first Christian nation." The ancient Armenian kingdom was split between the Byzantine and Sasanian empires around the early 5th century. Under the Bagratuni dynasty, the Armenian Kingdom was reestablished in the 9th century. Due to declining from wars against the Byzantines, the kingdom fell in 1045 and Armenia was soon after invaded by the Seljuk Turks. An Armenian principality and later a kingdom Cilician Armenia was located on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea between the 11th and 14th centuries. Between the 16th century and early 19th century, the traditional Armenian homeland composed of Eastern Armenia and Western Armenia came under rule of the Ottoman and successive Iranian empires, passing between the two over the centuries. By 1828, Eastern Armenia had been conquered by the Russian Empire from Qajar Iran, while most of the western parts of the traditional Armenian homeland still remained under Ottoman rule. During World War I, the Armenians living in their ancestral lands in the Ottoman Empire were systematically exterminated in the Armenian Genocide. In 1918, all non-Russian countries declared independence from the dissolved empire after the Russian Revolution, leading to the establishment of the First Republic of Armenia. By 1920, the state was incorporated into the Transcaucasian Socialist Federative Soviet Republic, a founding member of the Soviet Union in 1922. In 1936, the Transcaucasian state was dissolved, leaving its constituent states, including the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic, as full Union republics. The modern Republic of Armenia became independent in 1991 during the dissolution of the Soviet Union. The Republic of Armenia recognizes the Armenian Apostolic Church, the world's oldest national church, as the country's primary religious establishment, The unique Armenian alphabet was invented by Mesrop Mashtots in 405 AD. Armenia is a member of the Eurasian Economic Union, the Council of Europe and the Collective Security Treaty Organization. Armenia supports the de facto independent Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, which was proclaimed in 1991. Yerevan is the capital and largest city of Armenia, and one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. Situated along the Hrazdan River, Yerevan is the administrative, cultural, and industrial center of the country. It has been the capital since 1918, the thirteenth in the history of Armenia, and the seventh located in or around the Ararat plain. The history of Yerevan dates back to the 8th century BC, with the founding of the fortress of Erebuni in 782 BC by king Argishti I at the western extreme of the Ararat plain. Erebuni was "designed as a great administrative and religious centre, a fully royal capital." During the centuries long Iranian rule over Eastern Armenia that lasted from the early 16th century up to 1828, it was the center of Iran's Erivan khanate administrative division from 1736. In 1828, it became part of Imperial Russia alongside the rest of Eastern Armenia who conquered it from Iran through the Russo-Persian War (1826-1828). After World War I, Yerevan became the capital of the First Republic of Armenia as thousands of survivors of the Armenian Genocide in the Ottoman Empire settled in the area. The city expanded rapidly during the 20th century as Armenia became part of the Soviet Union. In a few decades, Yerevan was transformed from a provincial town within the Russian Empire, to Armenia's principal cultural, artistic, and industrial center, as well as becoming the seat of national government. With the growth of the economy of the country, Yerevan has been undergoing major transformation as many parts of the city have been the recipient of new construction since the early 2000s, and retail outlets as much as restaurants, shops, and street cafes, which were rare during Soviet times, have multiplied. As of 2011, the population of Yerevan was 1,060,138, making up to 35.1% of the total population of Armenia. Yerevan was named the 2012 World Book Capital by UNESCO. Yerevan is an associate member of Eurocities.

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Our Hostess was Diana Hovakimyan, She worked at Numismatics, International Association of Singers, charitable NGO. and Dental Clinic，Studied Singing at Komitas State Conservatory of Yerevan，Attended from 2010 to 2011. Lives in Yerevan, Armenia。第701回：文明摇篮深坑教堂，叙克拉克骑士城堡